A flight to nowhere!

Hello dear readers! How are things!? Last time out on the blog I wrote about some last minute travel plans and looking forward to an imminent trip to Malaysia – via Doha, Qatar!

I’d read and heard stories of Qatar Airway’s stopover programme from a few different travel folk and it was enough to tempt me in to taking my Malaysia trip via Doha, rather than flying to Kuala Lumpur directly.

I don’t want to make light of the situation but it’s somewhat funny reading my words back because I said in that last post that “I may well come home and say otherwise but the pros (of the stopover programme) appear to outweigh the cons”.

and so off I went. My dad dropped me off at Heathrow’s terminal four at 5am on Saturday 28th Feb and my trip began!

I don’t know if I’ve ever flown out of terminal four before, terminal five is predominantly the terminal that I fly out of with regular TransAtlantic travel over the years but terminal four was quiet! Admittedly, that’s probably because it was 5am but it was surprising how quickly I dropped off my bag and flew through security with no-queue before finding somewhere (Wetherspoons) to grab breakfast.

Ready to board a Qatar Airways flight

A short while later I was heading for my gate and getting ready to depart. Doha-bound on my first ever Qatar Airways flight. Qatar Airways are considered and I think even proudly boast themselves to be the “World’s best airline” and I can see why that claim might well ring true. I was unfortunately hampered with a middle-seat for our six hour flight but it was pretty comfortable all-things considered and my first impressions of Qatar Airways were promising.

Flight-entertainment included a scattering of movies and TV shows, English and otherwise. I spent the early part of my flight looking at a dedicated bit of Qatari content on the entertainment screen which explained a few things such as local attractions, culture, foods and other things to look out for and experience in Qatar – useful for someone that has never visited before. It was helping whet the appetite for a country I’d never visited.

Alas, I still haven’t.

I’ve had cancelled flights, I’ve had delayed flights but this was a travel first for me – a returning flight. Around an hour, maybe an hour and a half in to the flight, our entertainment was interrupted for news from the captain. Airspace in the region had been closed, consequently we’d immediately be flying back to Heathrow.

They didn’t expand on what that meant but any knowledge of politics or the conflict in the region quickly filled in the gap. I hadn’t made use of it up to now but Qatar Airways provide free Wi-Fi for all passengers and free Wi-Fi that actually works properly. I connected instantly and a quick look at the latest news made it clear why we were turning back.

I’m a pretty chilled and laid-back person at the best of times but I think this was a time where that was particularly on display. Travel disruption can be frustrating and have major consequences for people but on this occasion I found it really easy to just shrug it off.

There’s a little part of me that believes my mood was helped by the fact I had actually flown somewhere. I like visiting new places, I like experiencing new cultures and everything but I also genuinely quite like the travel part. I like the experience of flying itself. I like switching off from the world for a few hours and whilst this might have only been a round-trip, I’d still technically flown today. I’d had myself a little flight to nowhere.

Would I have been as calm about it all had I spent the entire morning waiting around at Heathrow? I don’t know but I’d like to think so.

Anyway, to my left was a passenger trying to get to Sri Lanka who’d already had one returned flight the previous day and had to stay in London overnight only to find himself returning to London for a second time. He was a combination of tired and frustrated. To my right was one of many passengers seemingly part of a Formula One team heading for Australia – fortunately traveling a week before the Formula One in Australia so they still had time to figure out a contingency plan.

In the row behind me was a guy heading to India for a wedding. Sat beside him a guy on his way to Vietnam to reunite with his girlfriend – doing the whole long-distance thing myself, it’s easy to empathise.

and then to those more directly affected than whatever plans. What of other passengers returning to home in Qatar or the Middle East? What of passengers concerned about their family and friends in the region? What of the airline staff in a similar situation? What of nobody on this flight affected but just thinking of people in general affected by more needless war?

A cancelled holiday seemed really insignificant, I couldn’t bring myself to care of any inconvenience to myself. I was heading back to England, it didn’t really matter.

but what now? I pondered trying to re-route to Malaysia a different way, was it worth it now? Even if I could fly directly, would I still be hampered traveling there? If you can’t fly over the Middle East, how else do you get to Asia? Do you fly over Ukraine / Russia instead?

I don’t feel like War is ever the answer but at least in older times you’d probably have two opposing leaders warring on the battleground themselves actually bearing some risk of war. The winner victorious; the loser either dead, captured or in hiding. Now you don’t even have to be in the vicinity to go to war.

“Text me updates and I’ll have a look once I’ve reached the 19th hole..”

Anyway, getting side-tracked but I enjoyed the flight back and by the time I’d landed in London I’d decided that not only was Qatar obviously out of the question but Malaysia probably was too.

The Qatar Airways (QA) ground staff were bombarded with questions. Questions they unsurprisingly didn’t have answers to at that moment in time. Unprecedented times in an era of endless unprecedented times. I’d already made my mind up that I wouldn’t be flying but I guess QA had to go through certain procedures before being able to release baggage and other such things.

I think initially the flight had just been pushed back but was eventually cancelled and baggage was released for all customers which you could collect after going back through passport control.

I have to say, that part was a little weird for me. We had technically left the country but I did envisage a scenario where the automated machine didn’t work and I’d have to go see a confused border patrol agent.

“Where have you flown to London from?”
“London..”
“No, you don’t understand. What airport did you depart from..? ”
“No, YOU don’t understand. I flew out of London this morning and landed back in London..”

I’d spent the time waiting around pondering a few different “Plan B” options. I was already at the airport, there was temptation to just fly somewhere else but there’s last minute travel and then there’s LAST MINUTE travel. A couple of options jumped out at me but nothing I felt content committing to so I headed home after passing through customs and collecting my bag.

I got home and did a bit more last minute travel planning. More than anything, I was chasing the sunshine. I had a week off, I should go somewhere and enjoy it. I was avoiding going East for obvious reasons and the argument against the likes of the America’s hadn’t changed so I was mostly looking at destinations in North Africa and Europe.

I don’t think looking at the very last minute helped my cause but I just couldn’t find the right trip. The cost would be too hard to justify paying, the flight times would be awkward or I’d finally find something suitable and then the weather forecast looked dreadful. I came very close to booking a few days in Tangier until I looked at a forecast of a week of rain – in Morocco, really!?

Tangier, Marrakech, Egypt, Tunisia, Malta, Fuerteventura, Lanzarote, Tenerife, Portugal, Sicily.. there might have only been minor inconveniences but I just couldn’t find what I was looking for. I gave up on a night’s planning and figured I’d sleep on it and have another look on Sunday morning.

Then something in my brain told me to have a look closer to home and suddenly everything aligned. I pessimistically looked at train fares to Brighton and was pleasantly surprised to find really cheap (by UK standards) prices to go down to Brighton for a few days. I took a look at the weather forecast and after months of non-stop rain, the weather Gods were blessing England with a week of sunshine. The clincher was that I’ve also never been to Brighton.

Brighton, England

I booked myself a hotel for three nights, the trains magically ran on time, the weather was glorious. Everything went smoothly.

Was it what I had planned for the week? Of course not but travel doesn’t always go to plan and I still made the best of the hand I’d been dealt. I’ll write about the Brighton trip in more detail another time but it was a lovely few days and had temporarily appeased my need for adventure.

As for the trip I’d actually planned, I’m going to compliment Qatar Airways who’ve already refunded me in full. I’ve become so used to some airlines being shit when things going wrong that it’s surprisingly unexpected when other airlines hold themselves to a higher standard.

Qatar trotted out the “due to high volumes..” line and yet still got my refund to me within eight days. Infact I think the money was back in my account before my trip had theoretically even ended.

Malaysia will sadly have to wait for another day. My small consolation is that the closer the trip got, the more regret I had that I wasn’t visiting for longer. I think next time I book an adventure there I’m going to have to visit for longer, see more of the region and probably tie it in with a trip to neighbouring Singapore too.

As for Qatar and the Middle East in general, my first hope is that this conflict ends sooner rather than later. One of the things that really struck a chord with me before this trip was that I’d be visiting during Ramadan and it just adds to my sadness that all of this is happening during this month of all months. I’m not religious at all but I hope there’s some normality and peace to come very quickly.

Conflict aside, I’m hopeful of visiting Doha another time. Qatar as a destination wasn’t really on my radar but the more research I did, the more interesting I found it to be. It’ll have to be somewhere I visit in the future.

And I suppose I’ll end this blog-post on a bit of a life-lesson to not take it for granted. Go do the things you want to do, visit the places you want to see, spend time with the people that matter because you never know what curveballs life is going to throw your way.

I made the best of this particular scenario but you just don’t know what’s going to happen. Will I really visit Doha another time? Will I ever visit Moscow and St Petersburg? I certainly thought so at a younger age but in present times it feels unlikely. What other bucketlist worthy places will potentially be affected by conflict or climate change?

There’s a fine line. I know for myself and most of you reading that we already live relatively privileged lives when comparing to people in other parts of the world but it’s hard and probably human nature to just want more. This trip didn’t happen and I’m fine with that given the circumstances but it has just added to the desire to see as much of the world as I can whilst I can.

I don’t want to end the post too morbidly but I’m terrified of death and consequently it’s the biggest motivator to just enjoy life whilst I still have that luxury. It pains and saddens me that conflicts and other world issues are often out of our control and impact so heavily on our lives but it motivates me more.

Realistically I know I won’t visit all of the places I want to but it’s nice to dream.

And on that note, I’ll wrap this blogpost up. Until next time!

Jason

A lesson learned in Dachau or a look in to the future?

My intention was to post about the second part of my Italy (Feb 2015) trip but I’ve felt rather reflective given recent news so you’ll have to wait a little longer. Instead we’re fast forwarding six months to August 2015 and my trip to Munich!

I decided whilst staying in Munich I’d have a daytrip somewhere and was pretty set on visiting the famous Neuschwanstein Schloss. As it was, at the last minute I changed my mind and did a tour to the nearby Dachau concentration camp.

Dachau’s a little outside of Munich so I decided it’d be better to go as part of a tour but in hindsight I think I’d recommend going solo or as part of your own group. Part of that was my own personal preference, I’d prefer to look around at my own pace and dedicate the right amount of time for my own interests.
I don’t think the tour guide was the greatest either though.

We didn’t get off to the best of starts before the tour. We arrived at Dachau’s main train station and had to get a bus to the site which was no big deal. However there were already a few people waiting at the bus stop and our tour guide took it upon herself to advise THEM that they could catch the next bus!
The Brits hold a reputation for “loving a queue” and I lived up to that stereotype because it did irk me – “they were here first!” I thought to myself.

I was embarrassed by the whole situation because, through association, we came across as really obnoxious tourists that didn’t care of the inconvenience it might cause to the locals. It was a decent group size so I can see the logic behind wanting to get everyone on the same bus but it was just a blunt statement, you figure she could have at least asked if it would be okay and those already waiting probably wouldn’t have had any issue with it.

To add to the obnoxiousness of it all our tour guide had blurted it out in English, I don’t think she was a native German so maybe she couldn’t explain it in German but it just annoyed me further. I figure if you’re going to have the cheek to do something like that at least do so in the local language.

Anyway, I think / hope everyone that wanted to get on the bus did get on. If by chance you’re reading this and still bitter about being late in August 2015 because you missed your bus I’m sorry! The queue-jumping is still haunting me three years later!

After a short bus ride we arrived at the Dachau site and were ready to start the tour properly. It wasn’t a tour I was expecting to enjoy, I wanted to visit but I was expecting an emotional experience. It really is somewhere you should make an effort to visit – not necessarily Dachau because there are others that might suit your location better, Auschwitz perhaps the most well-known of the concentration camps that you can visit.

A lot of the site is a huge open space, much like the photos I’d seen of Auschwitz. It feels very solemn and the enormity of where you are hits you instantly. One of the first things you’ll stumble upon is the gate reading “Arbeit Macht Frei” (Work will set you free) which sets the tone for what you’re walking in to.

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Dachau

Our tour started inside in what I suppose is comparable to a museum. They have various educational pieces and collections that educate you and help you envisage what it must have been like within the camp.
The tour guide was explaining various exhibits but I think a few, including myself, couldn’t really keep focused on what our guide was actually saying. Some parts she completely skipped over and others she droned on for too long and in the end I just found myself drowning it out and reading as much as I could as we went along.

I think it’s perhaps just my way of taking in information so I’m not going to name the tour company and be overly critical, it could be a tour you enjoy yourselves but personally I’d reiterate my recommendation to just go solo and take it all in at your own pace. It’s not a day you want to rush.

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May the example of those who were exterminated here between 1933 – 1945 because they resisted Nazism help to unite the living for the defence of peace and freedom and in respect for their fellow men. 

Some of the pieces made a bigger impact than others – a lot of the information you read does offer a decent insight in to what it was like and can be emotional. The part that hit me hardest though was seeing the videos of American troops arriving at Dachau for the very first time and making that discovery of the wellbeing of those that were being held captive. The footage was harrowing and seeing the faces of those who’d barely clung on alongside piles of bodies who hadn’t been so fortunate was a difficult watch.

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Get comfy!

Moving out of the exhibition gave us a chance to explore some of the other buildings. This included a long narrow building with cells where people were presumably kept, a building which showcased how squashed in and uncomfortable the living conditions were and lastly the fateful building with its chimney.
The chimney particularly important as it allowed the smoke to rise over the concentration camp and served as a reminder as to what the future had in store for you.

Dachau54

We reached the end of the tour and my thoughts throughout had been the same – how did this happen? It’s hard to envisage, hard to believe and yet it happened. This is history – relatively recent history at that with Holocaust survivors still living today.

It’s an emotional daytrip but an important one to take and the message you hope to take away with you is “never again”. It’s a simple message but effective and I walked away content that it’d be impossible to replicate, it could never happen again.

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Dachau prisoner numbers by country

Three years have passed since Dachau and I often find myself pondering if it could. Are we too arrogant to assume it could never happen again or that we’d do better?

If we think about the treatment of Jews in this period of history, we know who the “villains” are. We learn that story and Germany more than anyone hold their hands up and don’t shy away from retelling that awful history. I wrote about Budapest a while ago on the blog and it fascinated me learning how complicit Hungary were themselves – it’s not something I remember learning about in school but Hungarians feel their own shame about their role in history but similarly it’s something you learn more when you visit the country. Germany and Hungary both drum it in to you so that you never forget what happened.

So we’ve got our “bad guys” but what of the good guys? At what point did the “heroes” become just that? At what point were Germany, for instance, an ally that we didn’t wish to upset? It makes me wonder. Hitler didn’t wake up one morning and change history overnight – how many warning signs went unnoticed before action was deemed necessary? At what point was it TOO far? Before he came in to power, before the holocaust or millions of deaths later?

It leaves me curious. If an ally was to, I don’t know.. propose a Muslim ban or keep young children captive in crossing the border would we (the UK) step in? Is it even plausible someone like that could rise to power? Surely we’ve learnt from history and past mistakes?

“Of course we have, what silly questions Jason!!”

“Never again” I told myself three years ago as I left Dachau but a lot can change in three years. Political circumstances and agendas change and it’s led to my viewpoint changing too. I left Dachau emotional, it’s not an easy day but I left assured that history would never repeat itself. Can I say the same today?

World War 2 ended 75 years ago, we were the heroes of that time and yet I can’t help but be curious as to what people will be saying about us in 75 years time – never again?

What do you think?

Jason